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Terry Lobdell
Member
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Posted: Mon Apr 28th, 2008 01:56 pm |
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Here is a rocket box covered with a 10" diameter popcorn tin. I will slide another tin onto the bottom half leaving a gap in between for ventilation. I had always thought these tins would be an easy way to make a durable exterior for a rocket style house. This will be a 2 crevice house when completed and fairly light because of the tin exterior.
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Terry Lobdell
Member
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Posted: Mon Apr 28th, 2008 02:09 pm |
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This is after I brushed on the home made walnut husk stain. each side has a 1 & 1/2" hole for access to inner and outer crevices. The outer crevice behind the tin will be approx. 1" to 1&1/8" at the farthest point........bigger than I wanted........if I don't get much usage I may slip a thin piece of wood up next to the tin on all four sides to get the crevice size closer to 3/4" I will post more pics as I complete it.........
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Terry Lobdell
Member
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Posted: Thu May 15th, 2008 05:06 am |
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Here is the finished popcorn tin rocket box. The base of the post is an old broken treated 4X4 I had, about 7 feet long. I sandwiched 1 inch red pine boards around it and the double 2X4 center of my rocket. This made for a fairly stiff pole. The bottom of the house is about 13 feet off the ground.
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Terry Lobdell
Member
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Posted: Thu May 15th, 2008 05:15 am |
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Here is a close up view. The ventilation gap is about 1/2". If this design proves successful I may try one with 3 popcorn tin sections. The 45 degree cuts on the one inch boards should show guano, making it easy to tell when bats are roosting. The roof is a stove burner cover that I glued to the top of the tin. I also put a 1/4" layer of foam in between to help hold heat.
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Joe Spencer
Administrator
| Joined: | Mon Feb 11th, 2002 |
| Location: | Massachusetts USA |
| Posts: | 481 |
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Posted: Thu May 15th, 2008 08:45 pm |
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Very nice Terry! The tins eliminate the need for spacers correct? So basically you just slip them over? Do you/can you use a can opener to open up the lower non-roof tins bottom and if so how are you smoothing or eliminating any sharp metal edges? 
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Terry Lobdell
Member
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Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 04:37 am |
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| Joe, That is correct..........there is no need for spacers........the tins easily slide over..........I did use a block plane to shave down the corners a bit..........the gap at the furthest point out to the tin is a little wide (1&1/2") so I may eventually slide a thin strip of wood up through to maintain a 3/4" crevice........The inner crevice between the 2x4's and wood baffles is 3/4" all around.............I did use a can opener on the lower tin.........I bought the best one I could find which did a smooth job of cutting. I then coated the rim of the cut end with liquid nail to seal off the sharp edge. For it's size this has been the easiest and quickest to build bat house I have ever made. I just hope it gets some usage because these would be very easy design for someone who wanted to mount several bat houses quickly.......
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Joe Spencer
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| Joined: | Mon Feb 11th, 2002 |
| Location: | Massachusetts USA |
| Posts: | 481 |
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Posted: Sat May 17th, 2008 01:25 am |
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Thanks for the great feedback and good luck with occupancy on this design. 
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