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Terry Lobdell
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Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 11:18 pm |
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Terry Lobdell
Member
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Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 11:19 pm |
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| This is a simple jig I made for cutting saw kerfs in baffles with a circular saw.
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Terry Lobdell
Member
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Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 11:21 pm |
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Terry Lobdell
Member
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Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 11:22 pm |
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| I made this wooden guide for the circular saw to make straight cuts.
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Terry Lobdell
Member
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Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 11:23 pm |
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Terry Lobdell
Member
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Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 11:28 pm |
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| Both the baffles and the jig are rough sawn lumber so minimum clamping was needed to hold them in place. Just one screw in the end board was sufficient to hold all the baffles in place. Smooth lumber would have required more clamping.
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Terry Lobdell
Member
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Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 11:31 pm |
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Terry Lobdell
Member
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Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 11:39 pm |
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This is a row of finished saw kerfs. They are not quite as straight as when done on a table saw but this method with the jig was very fast and easy. Eventually I hope to get a dado blade set up for my table saw to cut 3 kerfs in one pass at 1/4" intervals.
Although my bats definitely prefer mesh baffles I have had good luck with saw kerfed baffles as well. I will probably make all my baffles this way this year because it is so much faster and costs less.
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Joe Spencer
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| Joined: | Mon Feb 11th, 2002 |
| Location: | Massachusetts USA |
| Posts: | 481 |
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Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2008 01:27 am |
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Nice Terry! Kind of like a reverse radial arm saw setup. Do you have a RIP blade or combo blade in the saw? I also thought of building my own kerf setup with a cheap high power setup using a 5hp electric motor (already have 220 outlet in my garage/shop) and using washers as spacers between multiple blades on one long shaft coupled to the motor via a belt and pully to eliminate vibrations. The latter could/shouldn't be direct drive. In one pass the entire board would be kerfed on one side. With such a shallow kerf depth and all the weight spinning, I wouldn't expect any bogging down. 
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Terry Lobdell
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Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2008 03:50 am |
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Joe, it's a carbide tip framing blade. I also tried a plywood blade. With the shallow kerf there didn't seem to be much difference.........
How many blades would you have with your design and how wide of a swath would it cut?
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Joe Spencer
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| Joined: | Mon Feb 11th, 2002 |
| Location: | Massachusetts USA |
| Posts: | 481 |
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Posted: Fri Feb 22nd, 2008 09:09 pm |
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Enough blades as possible so as to not bog down the motor at the desired kerf depth I suppose Terry. For the boards which I use horizontally those could be ripped but of course the verticle smaller/inner chamber boards would need a cross cut like you have above so another Jig setup would be used to accomodate the multiple cuts. Frequently that "made in china" HaborFreight company has 50 percent off sales and carbide tipped blades can be had very cheaply. 
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